Eastern Promise

Three Ski Tours in the Cairngorms

March 2021

Descending from Ben Macdui on the Cairngorm 18 Munros tour

With the snow line rising in Lochaber at the tail end of the 20-21 winter I made more frequent forays east to the high Cairngorm plateaux, where snow conditions were still good. Nowhere else in Britain is there such an amount of continuously high terrain, and the possibilities for long ski tours are well known. I was keen to combine lightweight ‘skimo’ race kit with my running and mountaineering fitness to see what was possible in the ‘Gorms.

Cairngorms 4000ers

Looking down to the Lairig Ghru on the Cairngorm 4000s

First I had a great outing on the 4000ers loop, the classic ski round of the five Munros over 4000ft height: Cairn Gorm, Ben Macdui, Cairn Toul, Sgor an Lochain Uaine and Braeriach. The weather and snow conditions were both ideal, and it was a really sociable day bumping into friends along the way. Good snow cover meant it was easy to ski right to the river in the Lairig Ghru from Ben Macdui’s summit, a long run with fantastic views and atmosphere. Up around the corries to Braeriach the snow was firm and fast, allowing the kind of easy quick movement that displays the true efficacy of skis. As expected, after the Chalamain gap there was a fair bit of jogging on foot to get back down to the snow gates where I had started, the road beyond being closed for the season. While satisfied with a fantastic day out on the ‘Five Tops’, my appetite was whetted for some longer missions and I began planning.

Cairngorm 4000s Route

5/3/21

35km 2400m ascent

4h46m00s

Cairngorms Eight Tops

A surprisingly nice descent from Ben Macdui to the Lairig Ghru on the Eight Tops tour

The Cairngorms Eight Tops is a loop around the eight highest Munros in the region - the 4000ers plus Ben Avon, Beinn a’ Bhuird and Beinn Mheadhoin. My dad Roger Wild made what is probably the first completion in 2010 in a time of 27 hrs and then again in 2013 in 22 hrs (See SMCJ 2011 + 2013). He used long Nordic skis with 3 pin bindings and leather boots. Having already been amazed by how my race skis could eat up the miles I wanted to try the Eight Tops myself. As well as the advantage of lighter kit the downhills would be easier and quicker as my skis lock into alpine mode for descents rather than Nordic skis which are free heel and harder to control. 

Cairngorm Eight Tops route

I liked the idea of starting and stopping the clock on Cairn Gorm summit. For a ski tour it made sense - maximising the use of snow - and had a logical simple aesthetic appeal. After an early start I cycled up the closed ski road and slowly skinned up Cairn Gorm to get in position. Setting off from the summit cairn at 0539 on Monday 15th March it was dark and not brilliant weather - windy and clagged in. By GPS I skied fairly directly down to The Saddle and was able to pick my way towards the outflow of Loch Avon in the growing half light, only taking skis off for a short way descending heather. Climbing around the northern shoulder of Beinn Mheadhoin I was able to traverse quickly on skis almost to the top of the Lairig an Laoigh. Now it was daylight but clag remained on the summits as I traversed across the Moine Bhealaidh (Yellow Moss) eastward, eventually climbing up into cloud as I ascended Beinn a’ Bhuird’s North Top. The snow conditions were really fast, and I skated and poled around to the descent down to the Sneck. Always wild and remote, today it seemed a lonely place and I walked on foot up an exposed wind-stripped ridge for a while before transferring back to skis. Ben Avon’s summit - Leabaidh an Daimh Bhuidhe - is a huge tor, and in the wind and clag I was glad to turn back west after scrambling up the hoared rock.

Poor visibility on the Eight Tops

After retracing my tracks to Beinn a’ Bhuird I descended back down to the huge expanse of the Yellow Moss, making fast progress back to the Lairig an Laoigh. Skinning up Beinn Mheadhoin there were early signs that the weather might improve, and I got a good view from its summit tor across the snowy expanses. Crossing the frozen outflow of Loch Etchachan I ascended into thin mist for the pull up onto the day’s highest peak, Ben Macdui. Shortly after leaving the summit however I got out from the clag and found surprisingly good skiing as the views into the Lairig Ghru opened up. Skiing all the way to the river, I boulder hopped across and filled up my water bottle. Whereas previously I had cramponed up steep Coire an t-Sabhail towards Cairn Toul, today I was able to skin the whole way on a thin layer of soft grippy snow. Now in the sun, I skied firm descents from Cairn Toul and Sgor an Lochain Uaine before traversing around the impressively corniced cliffs of Braeriach back into the clag.

Climbing up Coire an t-Sabhail towards Cairn Toul

From Braeriach’s summit I descended to the col before Sron na Lairig and then more steeply to the Pools of Dee. Tiring, I skinned and then booted up the March Burn back onto the plateau from where it was a steady skin back to the rim of the Northern Corries, which I followed past Coire Domhain and Coire Raibert. Arriving back at Cairn Gorm’s large cairn in the clag once again it had been an exhilarating day. I was tired and satisfied but at the same time the momentum of prolonged motion meant that I didn’t really want it to end. However, at 54km and 9h19m41s with 3500m of ascent, my legs were content to stop. All that remained was to slowly ski down through the ski area, and freewheel my bike uneventfully back along the road to the Hayfield.

Back down the closed ski road

15/3/21

53km 3500m ascent

9h19m41s

Cairngorms 18 Munros

Descending to the Lairig Ghru from Carn a’ Mhaim

In July 1988 Mark Rigby linked the 17 central Cairngorms Munros in a 120km loop from Glen More. Over the years the round has gained a reputation for being tough, rough and pathless with less than 30 people repeating the run. It also gained a Munro, Sgor an Lochain Uaine, when Munro’s Tables were updated in 1997. In 2010 John Fleetwood undertook the first and only winter round on foot in 54hrs despite some very difficult weather and conditions. Given the nature of the terrain it seemed obvious that an attempt on skis made sense, and my success on the Eight Tops gave me the confidence to try this considerably bigger outing. I had often wondered what it would be like to do “The Rigby” on skis, but of course there is only one way to find out. As a runner and skier I was probably more excited about trying to ski the round - it had never been done before and it seemed an ideal showcase of the skis potential and utility. 

Cairngorm 18 Munros (Rigby Round variation)

Five days after my Eight Tops ski I was back at the Hayfield and trying to get some afternoon sleep before my attempt. There was a narrow weather window opening but there had already been some thaw since my last tour. Although Rigby had started and stopped the clock at the Norwegian Stone in Glen More, for my skiing version it didn’t seem to make sense to stick to this rule. The snow line often doesn’t reach glen level here and it seems much better to start on Cairn Gorm, maximising time on skis and allowing a sporting finish back there again many hours later. How many hours I had no real idea. Rigby took 22hrs and Paul Raistrick brought this down to 19.5hrs (both on foot in summer). I hoped to get round in under 24hrs.

After repeating the steady ascent to Cairn Gorm summit I chatted to a few skiers who were camping by the weather station, then once again set off for The Saddle by GPS in the dark. Leaving at midnight exactly (on 20/3/21) the weather was clear and calm and descending I felt a mix of excitement and apprehension. While not disastrous, it quickly became apparent that snow cover below about 900m had taken a hit in the recent warm spell. After picking my way down to The Saddle I then alternated walking and skinning as I linked patches of snow on the way up A’ Choinneach. Cover improved and I skinned firm consolidated snow to summit Bynack More, sometimes turning my torch off to experience travelling solely by starlight in this silent special world.

Descending I aimed for the Fords of Avon via a traverse back around the east side of A’ Choinneach. In better cover this would have been relatively straightforward, but it was awkward trying to find the most profitable snow runnels in the dark, and they often didn’t run directly in the direction I wished to travel: a factor which would slow me down several times during the tour. After passing the deserted refuge I arrived at the river to find I would indeed be fording the Avon. Barefoot with my lycra suit rolled up above my knees I waded through and then stood with numb throbbing feet on the snowy opposite bank. Carefully drying feet and replacing socks, boots and skis, I was able to continue south. In a few hundred metres I had to repeat the whole operation again to cross the river draining the Lairig an Laoigh. This second cold therapy may have been avoidable by making an initial detour to cross the Avon further east, although perhaps the river is deeper there and I did not want to be finding out to my detriment alone at 2am.

Getting back into a rhythm I ascended Beinn a’ Chaorainn although its summit had been thawed down to the boulderfield by the recent hot sun. From here my route was down onto the Yellow Moss which was simple enough but less direct than five days ago due to the snow loss. Linking snowy patches I eventually got up onto high ground and Beinn a’ Bhuird’s minimalist cairn. Now very familiar with this stretch I quickly negotiated the Sneck and Ben Avon, pausing briefly to watch the lights of Aberdeenshire to the east. Returning west I descended back onto the Yellow Moss but this time turned southward and skated a section of the firm Allt an Aghaidh Mhilis in growing dawn light before a more awkward section to Beinn Bhreac’s bare summit. After a flat section and a water fill up I climbed from the head of the Lairig an Laoigh to Beinn Mheadhoin’s beautiful tor, the rock free of hoar this time. Now clear and sunny, a strengthening wind had developed which was an early sign of problems to come.

Descending towards Carn a’ Mhaim from Ben Macdui on the 18 Munros tour

The aller-retour to Derry Cairngorm was on good snow, although again the pattern of a short walk across boulders to the melted-out summit cairn was repeated. I was feeling good, keeping a steady pace and fueling sensibly. Coire Sputan Dearg looked brilliant in the sunlight; I passed on by and up to Ben Macdui. Looking back at my photographs it was still a nice day at this point, and I felt as though I was looking right across Scotland from the top of  its snowcap. The descent of Allt Clach nan Taillear was firm and fast but although I was able to remain on ski for large sections of it, the ridge out to Carn a’ Mhaim had melted considerably since my last view of it five days earlier. This was made up for however by a thin tongue of snow I was able to descend from near the summit 400m vertically all the way to the path in the Lairig Ghru; a section I had been slightly concerned about when planning my route.

Now nine Munros in - Cairn Gorm would be counted last - I had a five minute break at the Corrour bridge to adjust my rucksack, fill water and take stock. Up Coire Odhar I was able to skin but the ridge to Bod an Deamhain (The Devil’s Point) was bare of snow, giving a short break from carrying a sack and skis which I left at the col. Skirting Stob Coire an t-Saighdeir I climbed Cairn Toul into strong wind. After the short hop to Sgor an Lochain Uaine I left the coire rim to ski south west to the col near Loch nan Stuirteag. The now mild ambient temperature plus strong sun was starting to have effects on the snow, making it softer and slower, and the wind was tiring me. Monadh Mor’s gentle top seemed to drag on, but the connection to Beinn Bhrotain via the col overlooking Coire Cath nam Fionn was exciting with some skiing close to the edge.

Monadh Mor in the wind

Returning to Monadh Mor things now got difficult as I was forced to skin and pole downhill due to the soft snow and strong head wind. Mullach Clach a’ Bhlair looked a long way off and indeed it is, but this is made worse by the need for a circuitous arc to the north via Tom Dubh to avoid a significant drop down into River Eidart’s deep glen. Finally turning more to the south, my skins were sopping in the soft afternoon snow and a change to my spare set helped aid progress. After a long gentle climb to Mullach Clach a’ Bhlair I now skied north for another long stint, crossing the Great Moss towards Sgor Gaoith. The wind was strengthening, dark high clouds starting to encroach; I was tired but yet confident and resolute.

On Sgor Gaoith the cloud came in. I sat down by the perched summit looking into Glen Einich: only two more hills to go. Rounding the head of the glen on the high ground to the south I started the long climb up onto Braeriach’s plateau. Somewhere near Carn na Criche I ascended into whiteout and then it started raining persistently. The GPS batteries died but I had spares, just an inconvenience. I hadn’t brought heavy duty waterproofs and gradually became saturated. Moving along I wasn’t cold, but stopping wasn’t really an option. I chain ate a few gels and caffeine chews to sharpen me up; this wasn’t a place to make any mistakes. After some careful progress through the whiteness I arrived at Braeriach’s summit, just able to make out the dull doom of the Coire Bhrochain cliffs. From here it was a short way east to where I could drop to the Lairig Ghru and once there it was great to finally see a bit more definition. 

Damp on Braeriach summit

Snow around the March Burn had receded quite a lot since my Eight Tops visit and I was able to boot uphill just north of the burn on steep grass slopes. Back in the whiteout my goggles were dripping and I could only just make out an occasional ski track as I made my way with the wind back to the head of Coire Domhain. Visibility was still terrible and the light was fading: it would be dark again before long. A sodden skin tried to escape but I was too tired and too close to let it bother me. I stuck it back on the ski and willed it to stay there. The final climb up to Cairn Gorm from near Point 1141 was not fast but when done I arrived at the cairn, closing my 105km loop (with 6000m ascent) in 18 hrs 50 mins 43 secs. With just enough light left I scooted down through the damp ski area, out from the cloud, and down to the Hayfield to sleep.

The most memorable outings are usually our longest days. The days when, setting out, the outcome is uncertain are seldom forgettable. Moving through that arctic landscape the pleasure was in just doing, journeying. The snow was stable and safe, but it got too warm and soft, slowing me down. The strong wind was draining, and very poor weather in the last few hours was clearly not ideal. Snow cover was fairly thin below around 850m and some exposed or sun baked spots even higher were bare. Snow stability, cover and weather will rarely all align perfectly for this sort of journey, surely the longest day tour on skis in Britain. Earlier in the season there was far more lower level snow, but this route would have been too laborious with all the trail breaking and avalanche caution required. Setting out I never really had any doubts that this would make an incredible ski route in the right conditions, but knowing that is nothing compared to actually finding out. 

20/3/21

105km 6000m ascent

18h50m43s